Even before the construction of its famous canal, Panama's strategic location at the wasp waist of the Americas and at the meeting place of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans made it one of the great crossroads of the world. A narrow, S-shaped isthmus that stretches some 750km between Costa Rica and Colombia, Panama remains a vital thoroughfare of international commerce. However, Panama is often only visited by travellers as an afterthought, neglected by would-be visitors, in part, because the land bridge to South America, the Darién Gap, remains virtually impassable and, in part, because the use of the US dollar and the relatively high level of economic development can make it a more expensive country to visit than other places in the region. But Panama suffers from a serious image problem, too. Although the last US troops have now left the country and the canal is in Panamanian hands, many outsiders still perceive Panama as a virtual colony of the US – a country artificially created in order to facilitate construction of the famous waterway – and its culture is sometimes seen as a desperately compromised imitation of North America. Yet while it is true that no other country in Central America has been so dominated by the US – indeed, Panama does owe its very existence to US intervention – in fact, the North American cultural influence, though strong, is but one among many. Spanish, African, West Indian, Chinese, Indian, European – all have contributed to a compelling cultural mix, creating the most cosmopolitan, open-minded and outward-looking society in Central America. At the same time, Panama is also home to some of the most unassimilated and culturally fascinating indigenous communities in the region – within 30km of Panama City's high-rise banking district the native Emberá continue to practise subsistence agriculture in the rainforest.